Stories from the Store: The village that moved

WELCOME TO FLAUNDEN

This Hertfordshire hamlet is sometimes known as “the village that moved”.

The original village was on the banks of the River Chess, a couple of miles or so away, between Latimer and Chenies.

The village is not mentioned in the Domesday Book, the earliest records being from the Middle Ages, when a manor of Flaunden was held by Nicholas de Flaunden, whose son Thomas probably built the original church about 1238.

THE OLD CHURCH

The original St. Mary Magdalene church was situated next to the county boundaries, on marshy land, it is suspected that this may have been a site of an ancient, pre-Christian sacred well, particularly as there is evidence of a nearby Roman road and settlement on higher ground north of the River Chess.

The site of this church is a few hundred yards east of Latimer, on the north bank of the River Chess.  Nothing remains now, but as recently as 1930, services were held in the ruins.  Photographs show that the south transept window and a wall were still standing.

Since, unfortunately, the church has been allowed to vanish completely under thick undergrowth.  If it had survived, it would have been of great architectural interest, being laid out in the form of a Greek cross.

It was small, 36 ft. by 13 ft. from east to west, and 37 ft. by 10 ft. from north to south.  There was a wooden bell tower which contained three bells, made by William Knight of Reading, dated 1578.

Attached to the church was accommodation for the curate, and several reports say other buildings were erected right against the walls.

In 1728 a historian described it as a hard place to find, and in 1814 it was described as “a mean structure . . . partly inhabited by poor families”.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, came under the Vicarage of Hemel Hempstead, and was served by a curate from there.  Often many weeks went by without a service.  It’s claimed that when a service was due, someone would be stationed in the tower of Bovingdon Church to watch the Hempstead road.  If the curate was seen, the bells would be rung.

Legend has it that one Sunday when a service was to be held at Flaunden, a woman living by the wall was heard to mutter “I do hope and trust it will rain and then the parson won’t come, for I’ve got one of my best hens a-sitting on thirteen eggs in the pulpit and she won’t come off till Thursday!”  Some stories say it was a goose.

All that remains of the village now is the tomb of William Liberty, a brickmaker of Chorley Wood, who died in 1777 and was, at his own request, buried not by the church, but on a part of his estate.

THE NEW CHURCH

Nobody is certain why, but during the 18^th century the village of Flaunden began to decline on the banks of the Chess, and expand on top of the hill.  Villagers began to tire of walking three or four miles to church and back.

The Rev Samuel King was then Rector of Latimer and Flaunden.  Largely at his own expense, he commissioned a new church in the growing village.

He enlisted the help of his nephew, who often stayed at Latimer.  This nephew was George Gilbert Scott, later Sir George Gilbert Scott.

St. Mary Magdalene Church is thought to have been the first church designed by Scott, one of the most famous of Victorian architects who designed St. Pancras Station and many other notable buildings.

He was inspired by Augustus Pugin to participate in the Gothic Revival style of ecclesiastic architecture.

In his memoirs, he described it as “the poor barn designed for my uncle King”.  It’s a simple building, of brick and flint.  With a single nave, a small vestry on the north side, a gallery at the west end, a south porch, and a small turret containing a clock and a single bell.

Originally THREE bells, dated 1578, were taken from the old church.  Some stories claim that the other two bells were stolen.  Others that they were sold to help pay for the new church.

One of the bells has been traced, to St. John’s in Uxbridge.  Mystery surrounds the fate of the other.  The bell wasn’t all that was brought up the hill from the old church.

The font is a “fine example of Mediaeval stonework”.  The communion rails are reputed to be of wood from the old church, as is the massive south entrance door.

The tiles in the south porch are also from the old church.  Now badly worn, they are excellent examples of the 14^th century vitrified tilework, showing “arabesque patterns, lions in various attitudes, the heads of kings, queens and saints” according to an 1870’s report.

There are three stained glass windows, the magnificent east window being particularly spectacular.  It was put in place in 1958.  The work of John Hayward of the Faithcraft Works of St. Albans and Westminster, it shows Christ triumphant after the resurrection.

The central section was the gift of Mr. W. R. Moore, in memory of his wife and parents, who are buried in the churchyard.  The family firm, Moore’s Motorcycles, began business at the Old Forge in Hogpits Bottom in the 1920’s, and still trades in Apsley.  The side panels were added after the money was raised by the villagers.

Flaunden Church is unusual in that it has several war memorial plaques.  One remembering those villagers who died in the 1914-18 War.  Also those who died in the 1939-45 War, and one which originally hung in the Baptist Chapel in Birch Lane.  When this closed in 1985, its congregation asked that the war memorial be placed in the church, where it is now on the wall of the gallery.  The church also has a record of those who served at home and overseas.

Recently, the church has benefitted from many generous gifts.  The organ, carpeting for the alter steps and pews, and a modern silver chalice.  On special occasions the church uses the original silver chalice brought from the old church.  This has the hallmark of 1577, and is reputed to have been given by Queen Elizabeth I.

Since opening 150 years ago, St. Mary Magdalene has been part of the Rectory of Latimer and Flaunden, which the rector serving both churches.  After the retirement of the last incumbent, Rev. Dennis Ryle OBE, the Church of England suggested that the Parishes be incorporated in Greater Chesham.  This was resisted by the Parochial Church Councils, who felt strongly that these rural parishes would be better served by remaining in rural control.

Accordingly, in 1987, the Royal Assent was given to the incorporation of Latimer and Flaunden with the Parishes of Chenies and Little Chalfont, under the charge of Rev. Bob Stapleton, assisted by Rev. Dr. David Way, and Rev. Julian Harford, who resides at the Latimer Rectory.  Under their care, St. Mary Magdalene Church has seen a swelling in congregations, and the formation of a team of handbell ringers.

FLAUNDEN VILLAGE

The village of Flaunden is set on the edge of the Chiltern Hills, about five miles east of Chesham.  The Flaunden Conservation Area includes many listed buildings and fine walks.

The first approach to Flaunden from Latimer is dramatic.  After travelling along Flaunden bottom alongside remains of an old Roman road, whose dykes can just be made out on the south side, visitors pass up Flaunden Hill, overshadowed by trees, giving the impression of travelling up a rabbit-hole.

At the top of the hill, a large wooden dragon peeps over the hedge from the garden of the Green Dragon.  This pub, popular with locals and visitors alike, dates in part from the 17^th century.  The two front rooms were added in 1838 – the same year as the church.

It is reputed that a ghost, clad in a grey cloak, prowls the village.  Legend says that two travelers once saw the ghost, and were so terrified that they dare not leave the pub for several hours.  That, at least, was their excuse!

The Green Dragon has, in recent years, played host to other noted characters.  It was there that the infamous British traitor, Guy Burgess, was last seen before defecting to the Soviet Union.

On the corner is the Old School House, now a private residence.  It was an infant’s school, with governesses teaching children up to the age of eight, when they went on to either Chenies or Latimer.  One of the governesses, a Mrs. Cheshire recalled her memories in 1974.  She remembers sleeping at the schoolhouse, listening to owls hoot in the churchyard, and that her morning task was to cook Mrs. Baker a rasher of bacon by toasting it in front of the fire instead of frying it!

She also recalls that boys wore dresses until they were about four years old.  Then they got their first trousers and were “britched” – at last they were officially boys!

Past the Green Dragon is the Old Village Hall.  This became a private house when a new village hall was built some twenty years ago.  Sharlowes Farm, in the centre of the village is still a very active farm, with a fine 18^th century wooden barn.

Ruth Cheshire remembers the adventure of collecting milk there.  “A barking dog on a long chain had to be passed, and a group of hissing geese followed at our heels”.  A quart of skimmed milk cost a halfpenny.  The Farmhouse itself is one of the oldest buildings in the village.  Originally a late Mediaeval hall house, it has an exterior of red brick, and some fine wall paintings were found on the interior walls.

Across the road is Oak Cottage, another mediaeval house, with some extremely fine beams.  Ruth Cheshire remembers getting water from the pump at the back of Oak Cottage, worked by a horse, before a piped water supply was laid on to the village in about 1903.

Another of the older buildings is Granary Cottage on the crossroads, said to have been a grain store for Sharlowe’s Farm in the late 17^th century.  Across the crossroads is a fine line of cottages, built in the 18^th and 19^th centuries to house farm workers.  Facing them is Flinders Cottage, once a public house.

Returning to the crossroads, a southward turn brings you to the new village hall, used for functions by people from within and without the village.  It stands alongside the playing fields, with football pitch and swings for the children.

Awards have been won by the village for regularly being well-placed in the Best Kept Village Competition.  Further down the road is Hollins Hall – take a close look at the windows!  They’re not quite what they seem!

Flaunden House, at the far end of the village, was, until 1907, a thriving bakery and shop, where Ruth Cheshire’s father worked.  Three carts were used to make deliveries across a wide area including Chipperfield, Bovingdon, Chorleywood and Heronsgate.

The bakery produced fine cakes, including “dough cakes”, where yeast was the raising agent instead of eggs.  When the ovens were not being used by the shop, villagers made use of the residual heat to cook joints, cakes and cherry pies.

It was this shop which provided a gathering place for the young people around the turn of the century.  Ruth Cheshire remembers the Pritchards and the Burgins, both families who are still very much around in the present day village of Flaunden.

A northward turn at the crossroads leads to Birch Lane, with, on the right, Copse Cottage.  Until recently this was the village store and Post Office.

Further up on the right is the Baptist Chapel.  This was built in 1831, predating the village church.  It was served by lay preachers until 1985, when the congregation amalgamated with Bovingdon.  The Chapel is now a private house, although the graveyard remains open.

Moving on to the next crossroads, a right turn reveals Flaunden’s other public house, the Bricklayers Arms.  Again popular with locals and visitors, its outside seats are crowded on summer evenings with families relaxing.

Regular cricket matches are played between the two pubs – and there is a fierce rivalry to recruit the best players who may sup in both hostelries!

On the other side of the crossroads lies Hog Pit Bottom, or, some say, Hog Pits Bottom.  This road is thought to derive its name from the pits where “hoggin” was dug up to form the base of roads.

Flaunden is the village that moved.  It is still moving, but now with the times.  Still home for many of the families who have lived and worked here for generations, it’s now also home for many new people.  Most work elsewhere, in London, Hemel Hempstead, Watford, but everyone who lives here loves Flaunden.

The number of children is now higher than it has been for many years.  It’s very different from the days when German bands and dancing bears gathered at the crossroads, as Ruth Cheshire remembered.

The Italian organ-grinders of the 1890’s have been replaced by ramblers and motorists on treasure hunts.  Most of those who live here don’t want it pickled in aspic.  They want Flaunden to be CONSERVED, but not PRESERVED.  I hope that you have enjoyed your visit.

By Andrew M. Macgregor, dated June 1988.

Sourced, edited and transcribed by Pam Gasking

Newsletter editor, collections & research volunteer, Dacorum Heritage

Source: A booklet produced for the anniversary of the Church.  ‘Flaunden – A Celebration of the 150^th Anniversary of St. Mary Magdalene Church.  1838 – 1988’.  DACHT: 1116.329, part of the Dacorum Heritage collection, cared for at The Museum Store, Berkhamsted.